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| Mandolin perfect for a light summer meal Thu, 12 Jun 2008 10:18:06 -0500 What to do on a hot summer night when you’re in the mood for fine food, but the intense heat keeps you from wanting anything but watermelon and Gatorade? How about a light meal at one of the finest eating establishments in Bowling Green, the Mandolin. My dining companion and I thought patio dining might be doable once the sun went down, but were not disappointed when air conditioning still made more sense at 8 o’clock at night. Mainly because the Mandolin is owned and operated by two wildly artistic Bowling Green residents: One creates the atmosphere, and the other works her magic creating and executing a four-star menu. Each room is donned in rich grained woods and striking rosined wood etchings, as well as a variety of international artwork. The fireplace mantle in the room in which we dined was a bit chaotic, but a quick glance out the window to the relaxing porch patio outdoors made it feel as if I were outside after all. To execute the light meal genre idea, we ordered two light appetizers then split an entr/e. We chose the crespella pockets as one appetizer, then looked to the salad menu for another light, chilled appetizer, the mozzarella and roma tomato salad. The crespella pockets, even though they were fried, were the perfect light meal choice: Crispy crepes folded into small triangular shapes, stuffed with light cheeses and meats. The mozzarella and roma tomato salad had an abundance of soft mozzarella cheese. Soft mozzarella has an appetizing texture when eaten chilled on a hot summer day, but with just a hint of flavor and when eaten alone is lacking. Add a slice of tomato drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette and a side of greens, which is exactly how the Mandolin served it, and you have a dish delicious to the eye and the palate. We opted for the fish special that evening, a lightly breaded Italian cod with wild rice. The wait staff graciously split the meal, for a small fee, which allowed each of us to have a house salad with the dressing of our choice. We both chose the house specialty, gorgonzola - a light, creamy dressing with chunks of gorgonzola cheese for an occasional kick. The cod was rolled, then breaded with seasonings bursting with flavors, some I recognized, others I didn’t, but the blendings made this otherwise light meal a rich treat. The rice, too, a blend of brown and other wild rice varieties, made for a slender summer alternative to potatoes. With all this weightless eating, we had room for dessert. Of course there were the heavier favorites, like chocolate cake or even tiramisu, but we opted for the pineapple cake and it was a delicate ending to this modest, delicious meal. Thin layers of cake soaked in pineapple juice with layers of a whipped cream frosting was served with pineapple rounds on the side. Even though, as of this moment at least, the heat has settled down a bit, I would highly recommend the Mandolin for a meal on a whim or a special night out because in my experience it is a singularly, extraordinary eating establishment in our town. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. MANDOLIN 712 Chestnut St. |
| Nothing but ‘amore’ at Mancino’s Grinders Thu, 29 May 2008 12:08:18 -0500 "Amore” and pizza go together in songs and movies, so why not in Bowling Green. What I’m referring to here is Mancino’s Grinders and Pizza’s motto, which is: “I love that place!” Which both my dining companion and I did. While I reviewed Mancino’s at Greenwood almost two years ago, since this column is mainly about experience, I thought it was time for a visit to Mancino’s in Lost River. Love is not lost here, either. To begin with, the counter staff was jovial, friendly and not the least bit nosey, even when the two of us ordered just about one item in every category (in the name of trying as much as we could), which ended up being enough food for twice as many people. Love has to be pouring from everywhere if the kitchen is as exposed as it is at Mancino’s. A clean, cutting board wood and stainless cooking station looks to be about half the size of a football field and sits in the center, surrounded by pizza ovens and other work stations. The cook staff delightfully buzzes around each other as if they were choreographed by the workers in the Wizard of Oz, who “get up at 12, start to work at one, take an hour for lunch and then at two are done!” The entire experience was like a scene from a movie as the staff assisted with a pizza that sadly slipped off the tray and onto the floor and then mopped up a water spill with ease. Oh, and did I mention they can cook with consistency as well? At the counter my dining companion and I opted for soup, salad, a grinder, lasagna, a small pizza, a brownie and two oatmeal cookies. We were given the brownie and cookies right away and ended up eating dessert first, because what’s not to love about eating dessert first? The brownie had a cake-like quality and literally crumbled before reaching my mouth. Not even the frosting stayed put, but it was a chocolate treat overall. There are two types of oatmeal cookies: moist and chewy, that bend and don’t break, and the crispy, dryer version that snap and send oatmeal flakes a-flying. My dining companion prefers the soft version, yet Mancino’s bakes the latter, but we both agreed the cookies were quite flavorful. The soup was a cheesy, bacon potato that tasted best when it was hot. Small melt-in-your-mouth pieces of potato, with cheese and bacon tastes balanced nicely in a thick, creamy base. The Greek salad was excellent, with an abundance of olives, crumbly feta cheese, red onions, tomatoes and a packaged dressing. Both the pizza and the grinder exemplified taste. The Cajun chicken grinder wasn’t too spicy hot, but was spicy tasteful with tender, Cajun-rubbed chicken, onions, cheese, lettuce and tomato. We opted for the Mancino’s pride pizza with an effective combination of meats and veggies, a lovely crisp crust and just enough sauce! That appetizing sauce was generously poured over my personal favorite of the day, the lasagna. Even if you’ve only read this column a couple of times, you know I’m big on the perfect balance of flavor combinations and this lasagna had it going on! The sauce was plentiful, as I said, the noodles present, but it was the real ricotta with spices and cheeses hidden between the layers in just the right amount that made it truly delicious. Mancio’s also has other baked pastas, calzones, nachos, five other salads and cinnamon sticks with sides of vanilla icing for dipping, so surely you’ll find something to love. Actually we were on our way to a movie after pizza, but saved the ticket price partially due to the entertainingly delicious and enchanting visit to Mancino’s Grinders and Pizza. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff @bgdailynews.com. |
| Moe’s offers color, options and vibrant food Thu, 15 May 2008 10:59:35 -0500 When I think of the Southwest, I think of places like Santa Fe, N.M., and Sedona, Ariz. And when I remember passing through from one town to the other, I remember the vibrant contrasting colors of red earth, black rock and blue sky. Moe’s Southwestern Grill cuisine reflects this topography with a colorful flair added via ingredients, ingredients, ingredients. Black beans, olives, corn, tomatoes, avocado, onion and cilantro translate into appetizing shades of yellow, red, green, white and even black. Not to mention Moe’s also offers a plethora of multi-hued sauces. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Entering Moe’s, you can’t miss the oversized menu board with item names reflective of random pop culture, that don’t seem so random once you know that MOE’s is actually an acronym for: “musicians, outlaws and entertainers.” I had to look up the “Joey bag of donuts burrito,” which apparently hails from the movie, “My Cousin Vinny.” What I did not get when I entered was the “Welcome to Moe’s!” that was present when the restaurant first arrived in town. This was reflective of my entire trip down the manned conveyor of Southwestern cuisine. I could barely get the wait staff to look at me, let alone engage in a dialogue that would help me with the many choices. After I left the restaurant, though, I realized there appeared to be no necessary managerial guidance and only three servers working - this during the lunch rush. The wait wasn’t too bad, but I felt like more of an intruder than a customer. Despite this, I was able to choose menu items and make choices with enthusiasm. I chose two limited timers not on the usual menu, the Southwestern cobb salad and a special chicken quesadilla, as well as a close talker salad (from that close talker “Seinfeld” episode). My dining companion and I ate outdoors and relished in the variety of vibrant colors and groupings of savory tastes. Everything was fresh, from the pico de gallo to the cilantro to the romaine and especially the olives - I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a black olive with so much flavor! And as I was digressing earlier, there were an abundance of appetizing sauces, salsas and dressings. Chipotle ranch, guacamole ranch and a southwestern vinaigrette dressing for the salads. A chunky guacamole with onions, peppers, tomatoes and cilantro worked for my taste. My dining companion, however, did not like the guacamole and after one bite he went back to the tomatillo salsa that he’d been originally drawn to. The key ingredient in a variety of Latin American sauces, the tomatillo, is referred to as a Mexican tomato. Deep green in color, this fruit is spherical in shape and a bit larger than a walnut. Moe’s purees the tomatillo and I detected flavors of spices and lime that added to the deliciousness. I built each menu choice with my choice of seasoned beef or chicken, pinto or black beans, bacon, cheese, olives, pico de gallo, cucumbers and mango for the cobb salad. Each dish was flavorful, but I will say the quesadilla stood out as my favorite because the heated chicken was especially moist, when compared to the cold beef and chicken on the salads. Each menu category at Moe’s (burritos, nachos, quesadillas and the like) offers at least one vegetarian option, or you can choose any menu item, skip the beef and begin with the beans. So, between the colorful music, (hits from the ’50s to the ’80s), unusual menu options and vibrant food, gaudy works to please the palate in the south bringing the hues of the Southwest to Bowling Green. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. MOE’S SOUTHWESTERN GRILL 2020 Scottsville Road |
| Cave City’s El Mazatlan a good choice Thu, 8 May 2008 11:16:22 -0500 Que pasa? Which means: What’s up? It seems clich/ to begin a Mexican restaurant review with a Spanish urban phrase, yet I do so because it truly added to the enjoyment of my recent dining experience at El Mazatlan in Cave City. It all began with a friendly waiter, who genuinely called my dining companion and me “amigo” with every visit to the table, and who also humored us when we asked for translations, including the one that opened this review. Something I do always begin a Mexican meal with is a bowl of guacamole. El Mazatlan’s guacamole looked fresh and deep green in color, which made me think the only ingredient was avocado. This is usually a good thing, because I don’t like guacamole with fillers. In this case, however, the avocado must have been bland, because the guac was bland. I found one or two pieces of cilantro in the dip, but not enough to add flavor. My dining companion and I salted it, making it acceptable with chips. The appetizer we did vehemently enjoy was the cheese dip. It was the usual melted white cheese, but there seemed to be spices that added to the flavor as well. The d/cor at El Mazatlan was charming: Bright yellow, orange, brown and red colors on adobe-looking walls in a meandering floor plan and an occasional painted mural that looked like an open window on a sunny day. We sat far from the smoking section, because when we were seated near the door dividing the two sections, we still encountered smoke. El Mazatlan in Cave City is just off Interstate 65 north of Bowling Green. The word is with graduation, prom and Mother’s Day this weekend, the restaurants in Bowling Green will be full to capacity, so a trip north, if you don’t fall into any of those categories yet want to eat out, might be in order. And ... speaking of order, I can recommend a few items my dining companion and I enjoyed. The chimichangas were simple but delicious. They can be ordered with beef or spicy chicken. Both my dining companion and I had a chicken chimichanga on our combination plates. The chicken was moist - large flavorful chunks wrapped then fried in a flour tortilla that was flaky with deliciously substantial crunch at each end. Also on my el amigo special plate was a cheese quesadilla. This is a folded, then pan-fried flour tortilla filled with the same cheese as the queso dip. Unfortunately, as the meal cooled, the cheese separated and it was not as appetizing as it had been in the dip. Rounding off my plate was something I had never heard of called an ollita. This was a small, crispy, fried flour tortilla in the shape of a small cup with chicken chunks, spices, lettuce, tomato, sour cream and grated cheese layered inside. It was a unique, flavorful dish - and you could even eat the dish when you finished its contents. The chile in the egg batter then fried chile relleno was hotter than I’ve had at other restaurants. Both the beef taco and tamale had crumbly, fine pieces of ground beef with soft or crunchy corn meal for a classic Mexican combination and effective taste. El Mazatlan in Cave City has the same (or at least a very similar menu) to its sister restaurant in Bowling Green and also locations in Glasgow and Munfordville. I usually have either appetizers or dessert, but was tempted to enjoy both because El Mazatlan offers the Mexican classic flan, as well as unique desserts like fruit-filled burritos, churros with ice cream and tres leches cake. This translates into a cake made with three kinds of milk. And for my final Spanish expression: If you’re in “buen humor,” (a good mood) visit El Mazatlan and you will “que lo pases bien” (have a good time). — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to managing editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. 105 Garbner Lane |
| Hilton’s breakfast a luxurious escape Thu, 1 May 2008 10:33:01 -0500 There are several country-style, Southern breakfast eateries in Bowling Green that are deliciously greasy when I’m in the mood. But there is less than a handful of Tiffany-style breakfast establishments which I also find pleasurable. This is not to be confused with Breakfast at Tiffany’s, which was a simple menu outside the richest, most famous jewelry store in the country, but just the opposite - a breakfast with a well-to-do menu. I discovered the Hilton Garden Inn breakfast a few months ago, and finally made it in for a taste. While the Hilton did not have eggs Benedict on the menu (my personal standard for a lavish breakfast), it did offer a variety of breakfast items to enhance any morning meal. The restaurant, which also serves dinner, is housed just inside the lobby of the Hilton Garden Inn. I became enamored by the travel atmosphere, feeling as if I were actually away from home, and out of the blue began striking up conversations with the other guests about where they were from. My dining companion, on the other hand, sat at the table nostalgically noticing the upscale hotel d/cor that is a mirror image of any Hilton you might visit throughout the country. This luxury lends itself to the Tiffany-style breakfast, with thoughtful and soothing color combinations, deep grained decorative woods and opulent fixtures. The breakfast at Hilton Garden is a mix of buffet and made-to-order food. We each ordered at the made-to-order bar from a chalkboard menu. I ordered Texas-style French toast, my dining companion an omelet with potatoes. While we waited, we enjoyed a wide variety of fresh fruit housed in a bed of ice in the buffet. There were also the usual breakfast foods: bagels, doughnuts, toast, cereals - and even not so usual, soy milk. The buffet also included three kinds of juices, orange, apple and cranberry, in large ornamental carafes on the bar. I went for a cup of coffee and, by chance, discovered the Hilton Garden offers one of the best cups of coffee I have ever had. I don’t usually drink coffee black, but had overfilled the cup while chatting with a fellow traveler. I drank it down a bit so that I could add some of the flavored syrups they offered and was taken aback by the smooth flavor. Even my dining companion, who is not a coffee drinker, agreed. The first sip went down easy and lacked that usual bitter bite coffee can have. Our breakfasts arrived and while the omelet was not “fluffy” as the menu described, it was a flat, flavorful blend of eggs with a variety of chunky, abundant ingredients of your choice, like bacon, sausage, green peppers, onions, tomatoes, cheese and the like. It did not list mushrooms, but they were inadvertently included - so if you’re not a mushroom lover, take note and make sure to exclude them. The fried potatoes were tastefully unique and flavorful. The potatoes were uniformly cut into perfect half inch squares that were flawlessly fried in every direction - thick on the outside with a hint of soft potato on the inside. My Texas French toast was two pieces of thick bread, slightly crispy on the outside and moist on the inside. It needed just a small amount of butter and syrup because the sweetness of the egg batter was adequately enjoyable on its own. Breakfast at the Hilton Garden also offers patio dinning and was a splendid way to start the rest of our day, as we ended up engulfed in the true richness of taking in the wilderness while traveling down the Green River in a canoe. How lucky we are to have the best of both worlds in Bowling Green. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, please contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. |
| Red Lobster all about the extras Thu, 24 Apr 2008 11:13:11 -0500 I was fortunate recently to enjoy a celebratory Sunday night at Red Lobster. Many local fine dining establishments are closed on Sundays, and since this was the only day we could all meet for a birthday, I was grateful Red Lobster was so accommodating. Accommodating, too, was the atmosphere. It was a festive evening, yet we had the good fortune of getting into one of those huge booths in the back, which felt as if we were a party unto ourselves. This was a treat since I haven’t seen those booths making their way into restaurants lately. Red Lobster, of course, is a seafood haven, yet it also offers a variety of steaks, pastas and some appetizers that are either cleverly disguised or lack the taste of seafood. We ordered a combination platter of southwestern lobster egg rolls and lobster, crab and seafood stuffed mushrooms. Even though they were smothered in cheese, the mushrooms definitely had the texture and flavor combinations that seafood lovers would be drawn to. The southwestern lobster stuffed egg rolls, however, were just the opposite with black beans, corn, tomatoes and a hint of seafood taste all wrapped in an egg roll shell and fried lightly crispy. Our server was fun and jovial and the rest of the wait staff worked well together - tag-teaming our order and other needs as the night went on. This made for a very pleasant dining experience, especially since I was with a lively group that didn’t need a lot of attention, just service. We each had our own special drinks for the evening and were impressed with what Red Lobster had to offer and what we were served. From an apple-tini for the birthday girl to imported beer on tap to a stellar Long Island ice tea and a bottle of Pino Grigio, we were treated as if we were dining royalty. I guess it’s about high time (or should I say high “tide”) to get to the food, which was good, but not as impressive as some of our locally owned fine dining establishments. This would be fine, if the prices were also lower, but they were not. I had a fine New York steak and was fortunate enough to be able to substitute the lobster tail for tilapia in a bag, which was a Bowling Green special. It was served with my choice of side item and a vegetable. My particular meal was acceptable. The steak cut was tender and grilled well, the fish seasoned well for the moist benefits when cooked in a bag. The vegetables were a little over-cooked for my taste. Also ordered at the table were combinations that included plates of chicken, salmon and seafood. The literally dozens of choice combinations are a big part of the dining options at Red Lobster and those who ordered them felt the meal was enhanced by a spicy dipping sauce they ordered separately on the side. Others at the table did not enjoy their meals as much. The fried shrimp, calamari and scallops were average in size, preparation and flavor - nothing to write home about. The “jumbo” shrimp scampi platter looked similar to the regular shrimp combination, so I didn’t see the advantage in going big. The comment was, “without all extras like the salad, sides and the Cheddar Bay biscuits, I might have been disappointed.” Maybe that’s the point - it’s all the extras that Red Lobster has to offer that make the difference. The staff warned us about their singing abilities, but we all engaged in a lively round of “Happy Birthday,” accompanied by at least one professional level singer at the table - so all ended well. And if that wasn’t enough, any off-key voices were long forgotten once we were served the New York cheesecake covered with strawberries that was a perfectly thick, rich, yet not-too-sweet dessert we all could share. So if you’re looking for a day or evening, especially on Sunday, of fun and fish, I would recommend Red Lobster for the extras and the variety of options that make dining an individual treat. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdaily news.com. RED LOBSTER 2525 Scottsville Road |
| Country Mill’s buffet offering wide variety Thu, 17 Apr 2008 10:33:36 -0500 I was invited by a couple of colleagues to dine at The Country Mill Restaurant this week. I didn’t know what to expect, but heard it had changed for the good since I’d last visited years ago. Upon entering, we discovered right away that there isn’t a menu, it is strictly buffet; however, that didn’t stop us from getting made-to-order food and a variety that rivals any menu in town. The conversation quickly turned to quality, standards, expectations and how all of us might effect change. We weren’t talking about the restaurant, but in the work place and academic worlds. As I listened and ate, I realized my experience at Country Mill was mirroring that very conversation. To begin with, Country Mill has a long-standing foundation of buffet-style country food. This included, but was not limited to, the collard greens with a hint of spice, the highlighted flavor of the pinto beans and the pulled pork that was lean, tender and seasoned to Southern perfection. Even with the catfish, which a fisherman at the table commented was the best he’s had in all surrounding counties, Country Mill was consistent while offering a large variety, all made from scratch - maybe not at any one’s “home,” but certainly homemade. Even the d/cor offered a big country welcome with a faux barn roof in the back, Southern paintings, era inspired music, and a sign that read: “Come on in and sit a spell.” Also, Country Mill now offers a saut/ bar, salad bar and an oasis of desserts. The saut/ bar offers made-to-order entrees that include appetizers, five made-to-order burgers, pasta dishes, wraps and even a chicken cordon bleu sandwich, which I gleefully ordered. While my sandwich was cooking, I headed off to the salad bar and created a monster of a salad with mixed greens, first of the season beefsteak tomatoes, green peppers, olives and a Caesar dressing. I returned to the table to find my sweet tea waiting for me, and this is where I experienced some disappointment. The sweet tea was barely sweet, which surprised me at a “country” restaurant. I certainly had the opportunity to add sugar, but it’s just not the same. Then, while the waitress was friendly and informative when I met her at the dessert counter later, she wasn’t very personable at the table. Again, nothing major, just some things my dining companions and I noticed when we visited. One area for improvement would be the consistency of the saut/ bar. We each noticed the dishes we ordered, the cordon bleu, a spicy ranch chicken wrap and a fettuccini alfredo with shrimp and broccoli, were all acceptable and appreciated, but also lacked the punch of flavor these dishes usually have. As the conversation meandered through academics, it was inevitable, with the huge selection of desserts, the subject of “pie-ology” brought us to the end of the week. I had a coconut cream pie that was clearly homemade - and the best I’ve ever had. Fresh, thick whipped cream; flavorful filling; flaky crust and baked crispy coconut on top. There was something like a derby pie that others at the table had, and reported the chocolate chips, nuts and abundant filling were delectable - as was much of the meal. It was a wonderful dining experience and an incredible value. And again, since we’re talking academics, I’ll use a spelling metaphor. To remember the difference in spelling desert (dry land) and dessert, I learned with dessert you always want a second helping, so it has a second “s.” If that’s the case, at County Mill everything should be spelled like this: dessssssssssssert! — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. COUNTRY MILL RESTAURANT 600 U.S. 31-W By-Pass |
| Dining at Ichiban consistently good Thu, 10 Apr 2008 11:54:22 -0500 t was a sunny Sunday afternoon and my dining companion and I were in the mood for Japanese food. Ichiban came to mind, because, as far as my memory serves me, it’s the only Japanese food in town with patio dining. We arrived to find we weren’t the only ones with this idea and a group of very verbal Sunday travelers on the patio prompted us to eat indoors. Ichiban has been in Bowling Green for close to two years now and the cuisine, variety, service, value and just down-right fun remain consistent after all this time. The long strip of dining area inside the patio window means you can still enjoy the great outdoors if the blinds are open, yet also means the acoustics get chaotic and noisy with even just a dozen or so tables occupied. Not to worry though, if you can handle a little noise, the food is definitely worth it. My dining companion and I ordered the gamut after our complimentary clear broth soup with mushrooms and onions arrived. This included an egg roll for each of us, a crunchy shrimp roll for me and a veggie roll with a soy paper wrap for him, and a salad, tempura combo, chicken bowl and chicken lo mein to share. I didn’t see much of the chicken bowl (one of his favorite values at only $3.80), which is chicken on top of fried rice and carrots in a bowl served with a creamy light ginger sauce. All entrees are served with this signature sauce, as well as fried rice and carrots that are steamed just to the point of flavor enhancement. Later in the meal we discovered, by observing a nearby table, that you can order these delicious carrots by the bowl as well. The eggrolls, filled with a veggie and meat combination, were appetizing and generous in time. The chicken lo mein was enhanced by the perfectly grilled chicken and noodles tossed with vegetables and a light oil for flavor. The tempura combo was my least favorite, partially because it was served with onions as the only vegetable, but mainly because the tempura overwhelmed the meat or vegetables and was on the greasy side for my taste. I like a light tempura, not heavy tempura. My dining companion, however, favored the amount of tempura batter Ichiban had prepared. Our final fare was the sushi. We learned that those of you, like my dining companion, who strongly prefer sushi without the fish taste can order only veggies in the middle of a sushi roll, and substitute soy paper for the seaweed. This all but eliminates any fish flavor. I will say, over the years, my dining companion has been quite a trouper, trying eel, octopus and trying over and over the sushi seaweed despite his dislike for fish. So here’s a new culinary avenue for those who would like to try sushi, but have shied away due to the fish. Make sure to try the pickled ginger and wasabi that sushi is always served with, but beware of a little something I like to call wasabi wars. Wasabi, as I’ve reported in this column before, is served with sushi and has a horseradish quality. You can mix the amount, to your liking, with soy sauce in the Japanese bowl, stir with chopsticks, then dip a slice of roll into the mixture. The sauce mixture is not hot, as spicy food is, but a punch of intensity rolls through your mouth and sinuses, depending on the amount of wasabi you choose. My dining companion and I had a grand time, with each other, the staff and those around us, challenging each other to more and more wasabi, not just mixed in the soy sauce, but spread on each roll. It was a wild ride that led to some intense moments of deliciously cross cultural entertainment. So Ichiban turned out to be a lot of fun, out of the sun, on a Sunday afternoon, thanks to an informed, expedient staff (the sushi arrived faster than any I’ve ever had) and a variety of flavors at an excellent value. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, please contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. Hours: 11 a.m to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday Cuisine: Japanese Price range: $3.00 to $11.99 Specialties: Steak, seafood, sushi Libation situation: Beer, wine Smoking: Yes |
| Embrace Brickyard’s mystery Thu, 3 Apr 2008 11:13:33 -0500 As a well-known eating establishment in Bowling Green, The Brickyard Caf/ may need little to no introduction, except that a friend of mine told me a few weeks ago, in her mind, The Brickyard was best for lunch. This puzzled me. I meandered in on a Saturday night to discover a pleasingly mysterious, yet charismatic, dinner dining experience. The staff dressed entirely in black against the dark salmon-colored walls is striking. Each room has soothing artwork and the quaintness of divided rooms offers a wonderfully private setting for each table. You can see those you know on the way in and out, yet not feel you’re having dinner at a large, impersonal restaurant. And then there’s the food. While the restaurant may need no introduction, the menu specials translate into a relationship with this restaurant that will not soon tire, and where living in the mystery is appetizing. My dining companion and I had two specials and two regular menu items. Our appetizers, artichoke fritters, were on the regular menu. The sight of them started the evening with an air of fun. What looked like large spindly, spiky round creatures on the plate were actually battered-dipped fried artichoke hearts. The artichoke fritters themselves had an adequate flavor, and were served with a remoulade sauce. The sauce was awkwardly sweet for our taste, but an enjoyable treat overall. From the specials menu, I had sesame encrusted ahi tuna with a beurre blanc (an emulsified butter sauce) with capers. Wow. Even though the amount of sesame seeds I expected with “encrusted” in the description was not what I thought it would be, the tuna was delectably raw in the middle and the delicious dipping sauce caused a pleased raised eyebrow right away. It was served with mashed potatoes and a combination of winter vegetables that were steamed and seasoned to perfection. From the regular menu, we also ordered the portabella stacker. This was angel hair pasta tossed with truffle oil, light pesto and tomatoes with a stack of eggplant, cheese, zucchini and roasted red peppers in the center of the pasta, topped with a portabella mushroom. It looked like a flying saucer in the middle of a wheat field on the plate, and yes, it was out of this world. The underlying theme of each meal seemed to be mystery in the balance. By that I mean, one part of each dish tended to lack flavor (not to a fault thought), the fritters, the pasta, the tuna, coupled with ingredients with an incredible burst of flavor, the remoulade sauce, the beurre blanc and the stack of veggies and cheese. That, when put together, created taste sensations to the liking of most palates - if not, one could eat just a part and be satisfied. This was even true when we ordered a salad. When asked if we wanted anchovies on the Caesar salad, there was a resounding “definitely” from me and an emphatic “no thanks” from my companion. Our professional and astute waiter offered to put them on the side and we were both taken care of. The Brickyard menu has steaks, seafood, pastas and pizzas, depending what you’re in the mood for, and still is European cuisine with an inclination toward Italian foods and seasonings. But before I sign off here, I’ll say the chocolate Grenache tort from the special desserts menu was poetry in motion and a mystery I won’t soon forget. The Grenache was a thin layer of breakable, dark chocolate on the top, with melt-in-your-mouth whipped chocolate on a bed of chocolate cookie crumbs. It’s as if the chocolate became a mist in your mouth. No chewing required and not even “melting” adequately describes the chemical reaction that took place in each bite. It was like cotton candy that becomes a liquid as you eat it, but just before that is this mist. Imagine chocolate mist. So then, don’t conceal your need for a little night time fun - live in the mystery and savor all the Brickyard has to take in because living in the mystery can be delightful. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, please contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. THE BRICKYARD CAFE 1026 Chesnut St. |
| Sugar Maple eatery all about pizza Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:55:18 -0500 I’ve been gladly writing reviews each week for a while now and each week my visits in, around and just outside of town, also bring a bit of inspiration when I sit down to write. An angle, if you will, because not only does Bowling Green have a high number of restaurants per capita, it also has some very creative minds with unique food offering ideas. This week I ate at You and Me Sports Bar and Pizza. Much as I tried to find an angle, some inspiration, I was blank. Now, don’t get me wrong, the experience was one of a kind with a staff that was both attentive and fun. The calzone was delicious. I went to report on a new restaurant in the Sugar Maple side of town and since I’m not sure what to tell you, I’ll just go with the facts, just the facts. The restaurant and structure of the bar are artistically beautiful, which, when I did a pre-visit a few weeks ago made me think this was an outside-town version of the You and Me Restaurant on Chestnut Street. The sports bar also has Mediterranean archways, deep rich wood and solid high-back bar stools. When my dining companion and I entered the other night and took a closer look at the tables, we experienced a casual setting, with pizza, pool and music - which was my first shot at an angle. When we sat at the bar, however, the height was awkward for eating comfortably. The wait staff gave us a menu right away and I could see it was limited to appetizers, pizza and calzone. I asked about salads and our server said they had none. I asked about pizza delivery and she said not yet. I asked how late they were open, and she said 2 a.m. - unless it was slow. She was very personable, talkative, informative, fun and apologetic if they didn’t have something we wanted. We decided to try a few items that sounded unique, so we ordered the “French fried 4 oz. baget” (verbatim from the menu), the tequila lime wings and a pizza calzone, which is pizza dough folded over salami, onion, garlic, tomato, ricotta cheese and parsley. There was a little confusion with the order, but sitting at the bar we had direct access to the kitchen staff through a portal, so we chatted and worked things out. What didn’t work out so well was the “baget.” It turned out to be a plate of French fries served with marinara sauce. I thought we were getting slices of sourdough-type baguette bread battered and fried with marinara sauce. The fries were thick and well made, but apparently the idea of serving the fries with the marinara sauce is why it’s called a baget instead of fries. The tequila lime wings were deep fried, lightly crispy. I was hoping for a punch of lime flavor, but the punch came from the hot sauce served with it. My dining companion had the brilliant idea of mixing the hot sauce with the ranch dressing we were also served. This created a fine combination of light hot wings with a punch. The calzone was the highlight of the evening, as I’m sure most of the pizzas at You and Me are. Is it the sauce, the dough, the unique combinations of toppings? I think it is that they take such care in all of the above, that it really does make for one of the best pizza experiences in town. After our dining experience I imagined that You and Me Sports Bar and Pizza puts more time into the live entertainment they offered on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, so I called a fun-loving friend, who I knew had been to You and Me the previous Friday night. She said it was fun, and the band was good, but since there weren’t many people she thought the focus was more on the restaurant aspect. Well that puzzled me, until I realized, maybe this little gem just hasn’t been discovered by any Bowling Green pizza or entertainment patrons just yet. Looking over the article I just wrote, “without an angle” I realized - it’s the pizza, stupid! So I do recommend you stop in and pick up a pizza. You might call ahead of you’re in a hurry and encourage them to start delivering as soon as they can. And finally, if you’re in the mood for more, there’s always the well established sister restaurant, You and Me Restaurant, right here in town. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. You and Me Sports Bar and Pizza 1347 Hwy. 185, Sugar Maple Square |
| Micki’s on Main reinvents menu Thu, 20 Mar 2008 12:19:53 -0500 The luck of the Irish was with me this week - I visited Micki’s on Main the week they were serving green beer and introducing a new menu! I was too late for green beer, so I delighted in the new menu, reflective of the power of change. I say the power of change because I visited Micki’s a few months ago and my experience that day was a disappointment. I imagine though, when you’ve been restaurateurs as long as the owners of 440 Main Restaurant and Bar have, reinvention is part of the cycle, and my last visit must have hit the lull before renewal. And I’m happy to report on the renewal. Micki’s on Main restaurant, formerly known as the bar attached to 440, has patio and sidewalk seating overlooking Fountain Square. The staff at Micki’s endearingly refers to it as “the grill” serving lunch as the companion restaurant to 440 that serves only dinner. As is the case with 440, Micki’s menu leans toward Cajun recipes and techniques, but this new menu expands into some light salads, a stir fry entr/e and even a veggie lasagna for an international reach. My dining companion and I came in for a late lunch and were greeted by a jovial, informed and attentive waitress. We had the opportunity to witness the shift change from lunch to dinner, and the waitress treated the situation professionally with style and compassion. The rest of the wait staff could have used a lesson about teamwork from the fighting Irish this week - my experience that day was that their focus was reserved for their tables alone and after our waitress left, we had long waits for everything. We actually lucked out with the waitress, because we had planned to sit outside. Mardi Gras collided with St. Patty’s day, so the beads and clovers (not to mention the weather) drew us inside. Indoor dining at Micki’s is a one-of-a-kind, low light atmosphere enhanced by the charm of cookbooks, novels and lanterns that line the shelves above the wall of booths. Appetizers were not an option until the evening, so we ordered a side of Cajun fries and a cup of gumbo to happily fill the void. The gumbo was a rich roux of a strong, stew-like stock with okra, sausage, green peppers, rice and a variety of other spices and veggies. It was rich with chunks of each ingredient (although the menu description included chicken and shrimp, which must have missed) and just spicy enough to enjoy. I don’t know how the chef did it, but each bite was spicy in and of itself, but the heat did not escalate as I ate on, which often happens when I eat spicy food. The fries were fun and unique, with blackened seasoning sprinkled on perfectly crisp, thick-cut fried potatoes. My dining companion enjoyed a new salad called the Athena Greek tuna salad - a goddess-light, yet flavorful dream of lettuce greens, seared sashimi tuna, feta cheese, red onion, kalamata olives, tomato and cucumber with a house vinaigrette served with a peppered crispy flat bread. It was a challenge, but getting one serving of each ingredient in each bite made for a subtly flavorful experience. I had a hard time deciding between the veggie lasagna, the blackened grouper, the muffaleta or a hot brown (only because the waitress said it was the best hot brown within 100 miles), but I opted for a Bayou Chicken salad instead. This was a grilled Cajun chicken breast (same spices as the French fries), baby spinach leaves, candied pecans and bleu cheese crumbles with a balsamic vinaigrette. The menu noted the pecans were both spicy and sweet, but I didn’t get that flavor combination. The balsamic in the vinaigrette was pleasingly subdued, allowing for the natural goodness of the spinach, bleu cheese and crunchy pecans to shine through. Micki’s has taken a few things off the menu, like the cheese steak that was problematic when I visited months ago, and replaced them with an inventive mix of blackened and Cajun delights, a few southern staples and some unique new eats that will surely become your favorites before the new summer restaurant season has even begun. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. |
| A Taste of Europe offers tasty gyros Thu, 13 Mar 2008 11:03:29 -0500 I have been attempting to visit The Taste of Europe for more than a month now and I finally made it in last week. This week was unique because not only was I anonymous to the restaurant, my dining companion was also not aware I was writing a review. As luck would have it, she had been to Greece a few years ago, and had a unique take on our dining experience. To begin with, she knew from her Greek island hopping days that you do not pronounce the Greek food gyro, which are predominate on The Taste of Europe menu, like “j-ai-roh,” which is how I was saying it. Gyro is pronounced, our waiter confirmed, “j-yeer-oh.” Or close enough. The “g” is not silent, but spoken with the “j” sound, just softly. This may be subjective, however, because an online search noted the word is often mispronounced and suggested the “g” is actually silent. I have to say it doesn’t matter how you pronounce it, they’ll know what you’re talking about, but the greatest challenge is in finding The Taste of Europe. It is so tucked away, that even though I was the one who suggested the restaurant, I almost couldn’t find it. It’s gently squeezed between two windows of furniture on State Street, one block from the square. It is definitely worth a little detective work, and, as my dining companion revealed to me, reminiscent of a petite, tucked away, unassuming European caf/ you might find in Greece. What you’ll also find at The Taste of Europe is a Greek specialty sandwich prepared in many different ways with different ingredients. Gyros is well-season beef shaved into fine slices from a large piece of meat on a cylinder. The meat is cut from a slowly rotating vertical spit, just like the spinning motion of a gyroscope. The Taste of Europe offers this in plate form and in sandwiches made with beef, chicken or a combination of the two. My dining companion had the “authentic” gyro sandwich with the choice of a side item, French fries, rice or small Greek salad. French fries by “default,” as the menu noted, which I thought was an adorable way of suggesting: Choose or it will be chosen for you. In sandwich form the gyro is put into a round piece of double layered flat, pita bread with tzatziki sauce, lettuce, tomatoes and onions (or as you like it) and folded in half. For me the tzatziki sauce made the meal. It’s a fresh, cool, cucumber yogurt sauce with a hint of mint. It was also served with the chicken gyro plate I ordered. Instead of coming in sandwich form, my well-seasoned shaved chicken was served on a bed of seasoned rice with vegetables. The pita bread, tzatziki and a small Greek salad with feta cheese and olives was served on the side. I thoroughly enjoyed the flavor of everything. The pita bread had substance and tasteful essence, but was not heavy or chewy. The rice was tenderly seasoned with light oils, herbs and vegetables. The gyro meat and chicken, odd looking at first glance, was a unique and delicious way to eat meat. Just as it was hard to find the restaurant, I didn’t see the appetizers on the front of the menu, or I certainly would have tried the hummus. Hummus is a dip made with chickpeas, oil and seasonings and is delicious on pita bread. The Taste of Europe also serves a variety of salads (yes, including a gyro salad), pizzas for dinner, other Greek specialties and even a fajita plate. The atmosphere is laid back, just like Europe. It took me a while to pay the check, waiting for an elongated conversation to finish while I waited in line, but hey, it’s like being in another country, which is similar to being country. All life enhancing experiences, no matter how you pronounce it. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact managing editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. A Taste of Europe 1006 State St. |
| Bagels and Bites has great homemade breads Thu, 6 Mar 2008 11:16:53 -0600 I usually find myself gallivanting to opposite ends of Warren and its surrounding counties, but this week I found myself back in the heart of Bowling Green at Hartland. Vincent’s Bagels and Bites drew me in, and, like a scene from a Seinfeld episode, seemed to be drawing a lot of customers in. I entered the practically empty restaurant alone, looking to place a to-go order and after a couple of minutes, found myself at the front of a long lunch crowd line that was gently and willingly herded to the right with a retaining wall for excellent organization. A wall-sized mirror on the far right wall created a large space illusion and surely made the crowd seem much larger than it was. Or not. The d/cor was simple, light, clean and cheery with several four-top tables scattered throughout the restaurant. As I ordered, I kept looking back at the growing crowd and finally apologized to the women behind me for taking so much time. When I took a closer look at the reflections in the mirror, however, the customers seemed just happy to be there. The woman behind me only needed a New York accent and it really could have been a scene from Seinfeld - she said, “There’s no right time. We’re all used to this place being busy all the time. It’s worth it.” And it was! Vincent’s has a huge variety of homemade bagels for breakfast or anytime, as well as breads, muffins, pastries, cookies and even a breakfast sandwich if you stop by for breakfast. And for dinner or lunch, there is no limit to this homemade sky! I enjoyed the Hilltopper sandwich piled high with ham, salami and pepperoni and equally generous portions of provolone cheese, onion, green pepper, lettuce, tomato and a light drizzle of Italian dressing on thick slices of homemade bread. I was impressed with the long, lean, yet large slices of green pepper, which meant I got a taste in every bite, and the fact that the sandwich was perfectly moist without any other condiments meant the flavor of the meats and vegetables shined through. Not even the thick slices of wheat bread overwhelmed, but all ingredients worked together to form a delicious symphony of flavors. The pasta salad was also moist, light and appetizing with chunks of pepperoni, green pepper and onion. Both homemade soups were equally appetizing that day. The cheesy tomato was like having spaghetti in soup form. The blend of ground meat, pipe rigate pasta (large macaroni type) and a cheesy tomato base tasted like my favorite plate of spaghetti piled high with parmesan. The base of the ham and bean soup was where most of the flavor came from, slightly salty with the bean flavor cooked right in, then little bits of ham and a generous portion of white beans to round off this savory lunch treat. The green salad too was fresh and full of vegetables. A nice touch was that they waited to put the grated cheddar cheese on until just before they gave me the salad. The staff did forget to ask about or include salad dressing, but then so did I and I wasn’t under any pressure. The three women taking and making orders worked well together, had a system and stayed pleasant no matter how many sandwiches they were making all at once. The Californian sandwich was a unique and palatable delicacy. A slice of homemade bread was spread with a spinach/artichoke cream cheese, then piled with turkey breast, onion and tomato, and finally grilled on the panini grill - a lovely indulgence no matter if it’s cold or hot outside. One glitch - I arrived home to discover I had not been given a honey-go-round sandwich I’d ordered but chicken salad. This would have been fine, if I had liked the chicken salad, but it wasn’t as flavorful as the other two sandwiches and just listen to the description of the honey-go-round: “ham covered with melted Swiss cheese, onion and honey mustard, served on our toasted onion bagel.” You can bet I’ll be back in the Seinfeld line before long to try out the honey-go-round, the hartland, the country bumpkin sandwiches and to have another one of those deep, moist chocolate brownies while I try not to hold up the line. Luckily it’s not New York or there would have been no soup for me! No, it’s Bowling Green so I got a “bless her heart” pat on the hand to take my time, and a smile! — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, please contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. Vincent’s Bagels and Bites 1660A Scottsville Road |
| Awards shows are nothing without Oscar-worthy food Thu, 28 Feb 2008 11:08:50 -0600 What would the Academy Awards be without delicious food to mark the occasion? In this week’s review, appetizers from previous reviews will walk the red carpet as I revisit outstanding performances in the hors d’oeuvre category. Additionally, I will introduce four appetizers my dining companions and I consumed as we viewed the Oscars, honoring that writers are again writing in Hollywood. The first two appetizers from a former review hail from Anna’s Greek Restaurant and Bar. The croquettes santorini are a delicious mixture of tomato with peppers, onion, oregano and mint, breaded and lightly fried - no dipping sauce needed. Months ago, when my dining companions and I visited Anna’s, the wait staff also recommended the spanakopita. A great meal starter, it was a homemade crispy filo dough filled with spinach and spices served with a tangy cucumber and sour cream sauce called tzatziki. No one had to yell action to get us to gulp down these two perfectly executed treats. The next winner showed well in two categories: performance and value. This was the Belgian cheese fondue at the Cellar Restaurant and Wine Bar. When I dined there a few months ago, my dining companion and I were served a generous portion of artisan bread, apples, olives and tomatoes to dip into a fondue of melted cheeses with wine and kirsch. This was a glamorous appetizer on an independent film budget. Not to forget those in a supporting role, the deep fried ravioli from BB’s Italian in Leitchfield fared as a box office success when I visited last year, and the deep fried pickles from A Taste of Texas in Glasgow earned excellent achievement in Southern finger foods from dining companions who know country when they see it. On Oscar day, I ran around town getting just the right combination of appetizers. Much to my surprise, this was easier than I thought. All but one of the restaurants I ordered from had curb-side take out and all were efficient and friendly. Most notable of the four was an outstanding performance by a foreign appetizer from an American restaurant, namely the Asian dumplings from Ruby Tuesdays. Filled with chicken and seasonings, they could stand alone as a delicious steamed treat, but Ruby Tuesdays adds a thick peanut sauce with a hint of soy sauce, ginger and other spices to attain a pleasing dramatic effect. We also enjoyed the parmesan encrusted Sicilian quesadillas from TGI Friday’s and the Tillamook cheese and pico de gallo from Montana Grille. The cheese dip included sharp Oregon cheese, five pepper relish and rice wine vinegar served with tortilla chips. Like many actors, it was a little too cheesey for my taste, but good overall. The Sicilian quesadillas were flour tortillas pan fried with Parmesan cheese filled with chicken, sausage, bruschetta marinara, bacon and Monterey jack cheese and drizzled with a balsamic glaze. Wow, flavor combinations to rival any comedy or tragedy. I would, however, request the balsamic glaze for dipping, as we did not get any from takeout. Though neither may have won the Oscar outright, they were definitely among nominees and, after all, it’s just an honor to be nominated, right? Not forgetting to thank the little people in an acceptance speech is important. The Gold Coast Coconut Shrimp from Outback Steakhouse has always been a favorite of mine so I stopped by Outback for not one, but two orders on Oscar day, knowing it would go fast. This shrimp is beer battered, rolled in coconut and served with a Creole marmalade dip that is sweet with a hint of spiciness - just the opposite of Cate Blanchett as Queen Elizabeth. Finally, when you stage any event, it’s important to have wine that’s red-carpet worthy as well. I decided to stop by the quaint new wine shop at Hartland, called Chuck’s (behind Steak n’ Shake). It’s a high-end wine and spirits shop with a caf/ atmosphere including wine and cheese tastings on Friday and Saturday nights. The knowledgeable and attractive evening staff members (casting agents be aware) helped me pick out the best wine for my occasion. The first wine was something no female celebrity can be without. “Little Black Dress” was a 2006 Merlot from California. Like its namesake, it’s a subtle red wine and a fine choice to build from. The second wine was to honor Johnny Depp’s performance in the movie “Sweeney Todd: The Demon of Fleet Street.” “The Razor’s Edge” was a 2005 Shiraz from Australia. This red is a bit more complex but balanced nicely between extremes with full-bodied elegance and both went well with the appetizers. While none of my choices for movies or actors won this year, at least the Bowling Green eating and drinking establishments performed to perfection, making the evening at home a crowd-pleasing success. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail to malexieff@bgdailynews.com. |
| Mis Amigos menu offers flavorful Mexican dishes Thu, 21 Feb 2008 09:50:41 -0600 While it’s true there are several fine Mexican food establishments in Bowling Green, you might consider a trip to Brownsville to experience the new Mis Amigos Mexican Grill as well. Mis Amigos, which means “our friends,” notes on its menu it offers “the best authentic Mexican food cooked fresh daily.” In my experience, that’s just what I found. I thoroughly enjoyed a few one-of-a-kind menu items, as well as taking a gander at the magnificent Green River as I crossed the bridge on Ky. 259 just past town that led me to Mis Amigos. As we often do at Mexican restaurants, my dining companion and I began with a bowl of guacamole dip to go with our complimentary chips and salsa. You can tell a lot about a Mexican restaurant by the guacamole, and this was the thick, deep green variety with the primary ingredient being avocado, enhanced with a hint of seasonings and no filler. The salsa was more of the same: fresh and appetizing. In my experience, Mexican restaurants have one good salsa (usually medium in heat) and then a backup salsa that’s just so-so for those who don’t want it as hot. At Mis Amigos, the mild salsa my dining companion requested was just as chunky, fresh and tasty as the medium salsa we were served. It was a good thing, however, that both the guac and the salsa were so flavorful, because the chips weren’t as appetizing. Not that they were bad, but they were overly dense and on the greasy side. They seemed to be made with a thick yellow corn tortilla, instead of the more popular white corn tortilla that’s not as thick. I have to say right now though, after the chips, every bit of food we were served was fresh and savory with abundant serving sizes and generous palatable flavors. For instance, when I ordered the guac, I also ordered a unique sounding shrimp cocktail - Mexican style. It included boiled large shrimp swimming in a tomato-based juice with pico de gallo and avocado. I could eat this dish every day. It was light, yet tangy. There were so many shrimp I couldn’t count them all and the grouping of flavors - the avocado, shrimp, tomato and peppers in the pico de gallo - was a delicious amalgam for the palate. My dining companion had the chicken fajita and reported it was the best he’d ever had. The taste seemed to be created as it was grilled in the skillet so that the marinade soaked nicely into the fork-tender chicken. I ordered a special dinner that had a “little of everything,” including a chalupa, enchilada, tamale, taco, chile relleno, Mexican rice and refried beans. It was enough for two people. Every item was unique, but my favorites were the tamale, a small round version of cooked corn meal surrounded by shredded beef and cheese, and the chile relleno, a cheese stuffed mild chile with a flavor-enhancing red sauce. There are so many items on the Mis Amigos menu it was really hard to choose, which was maybe why I ended up with such a variety. A few other unique items included Jim’s dip on the appetizer menu consisting of melted cheese with beef, mushrooms and scallions served with flour tortillas; 11 different kinds of nachos, and something called a Mexican pyramid with chicken, broccoli scallions, mushrooms and rice covered in cheese sauce. Inside the structure of the restaurant is a pleasing color combination of gray, red, black and white on the walls with booths down one windowed wall and a variety of table types and chairs throughout the restaurant. Mis Amigos was clean. However, as is common with rural restaurants, it was a little rough around the edges in a slightly run-down facility. This should not keep you from visiting though. Mis Amigos’ staff, as our waitress shared, is “a group of friends with the heart of a family.” I could feel this in our interactions with our waitress, with the management and it came through in the food. And, since it was a family birthday that had brought me to this neck of the woods, like family, Mis Amigos is well-worth the trip. — Our anonymous food reviewer gives new restaurants a six-week grace period before reviewing. To comment, please contact Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at 783-3235 or via e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. Mis Amigos Mexicano Grill 600 Ky. 295 N, Brownsville |
| Thai Express is fast on food, and doesn’t lack taste or freshness Thu, 14 Feb 2008 10:16:44 -0600 Thai cuisine hails from the country of Thailand in Southeast Asia. Thai Express is a new restaurant on the U.S. 31-W By-Pass that offers the fundamentals of Thai cuisine at a fast-food pace. Don’t get me wrong - there’s a dining area, and they bring the food out to you. It offers dishes that have a balance of flavors, (hot, sour, sweet, salty and even sometimes bitter) and uses fresh, not dried, herbs in all the dishes. Thing is, it just happens fast. After asking a few questions, my dining companion and I had an order of pad Thai chicken with thin rice noodles, cashew chicken over rice, two egg rolls, lemongrass shrimp soup and a Thai beef salad - all ordered on the mild side because, in my experience, spicy really means spice when it comes to Thai food. The pad Thai chicken had a light, yet appealingly flavorful, sweet-and-sour sauce tossed in with the thin rice noodles with small bits of eggs, bean sprouts, green onions and ground peanuts. If you’re looking for vegetables, this dish had only a few, but the taste was the best of the meals we ordered. The lemongrass shrimp soup with green onions and cilantro in a lemongrass broth had an abundance of mushrooms and fresh, plump shrimp. I ordered it mild, but it was still deliciously spicy and tangy. The Thai beef salad was a unique treat, but not what I expected. There was more beef than cucumber, lots of crispy fresh lettuce and a vinaigrette dressing that didn’t have a lot of flavor. But again, it was good. There was one other dish that didn’t have a lot of flavor and that was the cashew chicken over rice. As a replacement, I ordered the drunken noodle chicken with wide rice noodles, chicken, chili sauce, white wine, onions, red pepper, tomatoes and basil. This dish was also sparse on the vegetables, but not on taste. It hit all five Thai flavors, including a little bitterness from the basil, and all worked well together. In my experience, I would highly recommend Thai Express for taste, freshness, expedience and value, (especially since they take cash, credit cards and Big Red dollars). Thai Express 511 U.S. 31-W By-Pass Bowling Green, 796-3614 Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. Specialties: Noodles, rice Price range: $5.75 to $6.95 Smoking: No Libation situation: None |
| Beijing Restaurant : Some things never change, and some improve Thu, 7 Feb 2008 11:22:22 -0600 At Beijing Restaurant, some things are the same, like the same haphazard pool of water in the concrete pond outside the restaurant, but some things have changed. Enough has changed so that I felt compelled to ask if the restaurant was under new ownership or management. It is not. Just some not necessarily needed, yet welcomed, fine tuning. To begin with, the overall food presentation on the buffet was much improved. The sushi has moved and is housed next to the stir fry station, all on its own. There are now five to six varieties of sushi, instead of just three, and each of them is covered in a solid plastic, rectangular lid with a handle, instead of just clear plastic wrap. Additionally, each variety of sushi was wrapped tight with more flavorful, traditional sticky rice than I remember from previous visits. So tight with rice, fish, vegetables and seaweed that it was easy to spread the pungent wasabi and soy sauce over the top and a breeze to pick up with chop sticks. The variety, as well as the freshness of each item on the buffet, seems to be much improved as well. Don’t get me wrong, Beijing has always had a high quality of food, freshness and service, yet what I’m reporting here is Beijing, on the day I visited, had gone beyond just above average to a stellar performance by a Chinese buffet. I opted for the sesame chicken, chicken with broccoli, fried rice and, of course, a variety of sushi. All fresh and flavorful in their own way. The sesame chicken was deep fried chicken covered in a thick sesame sauce. The chicken pieces were abundant enough that the balance of flavors between the chicken, the breading and the sauce were some of the best I’ve ever had. The chicken with broccoli was the same - enough broccoli, steamed crispy, with thin and tender pieces of chicken in a thick sauce. As I looked over the buffet, I could see numerous appetizing dishes, including steamed salmon, three kinds of soup, lo mien and shrimp with vegetables. The buffet still features both American and Chinese appetizers, green salad with all the fixings and an ice cream and dessert bar. The only items that seemed to be missing are some of the items like puddings, sweet salads and fried okra that for me just cluttered and confused anyway. My dining companion made a beeline for the fresh stir fry station, where there were two new sauces, including the one he chose, teriyaki. You can combine meats, rice, noodles and a variety of vegetables to be stir fried on the spot on a huge wok-like cooking device. He opted for noodles, broccoli, snow peas, bamboo and more - and I chimed in asking for a few of the deliciously flavorful and soft baby corn. The price of the buffet has increased from $8.95 to $9.50, but it was well worth it. I’d actually be willing to pay even 25 cents more if they’d do two things: Fill the pond with filtered water and some gold fish so that it’s not such an eyesore as you enter; and, at the request of my dining companion, bring the gong back. The gong used to signal for the chef to come out and stir fry the vegetables. It was such a nice cultural touch and the buzzer they’ve replaced it with just isn’t the same. — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdaily news.com. Beijing Restaurant 1951 Scottsville Road Bowling Green 842-2288 Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday Cuisine: Chinese Specialties: Buffet Buffet price: Lunch $6.95; dinner and all day Sunday $9.50 Libation situation: Full bar Smoking: Yes |
| Sante Fe Cattle Co. offers lots of color Thu, 31 Jan 2008 11:39:59 -0600 Having not been to the Santa Fe Cattle Company for more than a year, I was pleasantly surprised to discover the menu has been expanded and includes a few one-of-a-kind items. I was greeted outside by a manager who opened the free swinging, barn-like doors, then greeted again as I entered the lobby. Being seated just outside the kitchen door usually prompts me to ask for a change of venue, but something told me to stay put today. My intuition was right. It added a little color to my meal. Color, because of the row of full-color plate presentation photographs the cooks effectively use for uniformity I could see when the hard-working wait staff swung open the stainless steel doors. And colorful, because when one of the wait staff dropped food off a plate as she exited the kitchen, I was close enough to hear the expletive she muttered and to see a helpful colleague soothe her co-worker. The wait staff was an interesting and pleasant part of the dining experience. It was as if they gently blended in to the southwestern, barn wood, rawhide motif, but at the same time were there whenever, and I mean whenever, needed. Our waiter was smooth but effective. He was the kind of waiter who doesn’t have to write anything down, but who gets everything right - even amid my “on the side” and unlimited questions about the side dishes and how long the veggies are cooked. I decided to skip the appetizers and have dessert instead. I usually like to have one or the other. This was hard, though, because Santa Fe has 11 appetizers to choose from, including deep fried flautas and Texas sausage, which both sounded unique and inviting. With it being so cold outside, I also skipped past the four salads, including a blackened sirloin salad with bleu cheese that had the flavor combinations I love. I opted for one of their specialties, ribs, combined with a little seafood, coconut shrimp, and my dining companion choose the one-of-a-kind chicken breast a la lawn boy. My combo platter was pricey, but I had enough for dinner that night and a few shrimp the next day. My first bite into the ribs was pleasant to the taste buds, yet tough on the teeth. The barbecue sauce had more than just a hint of what I think was orange zest and it was delicious. I’m going to have to try this at home. The meat was on the crispy side, so I asked the waiter about it and he said he’d be happy to replace the ribs, but that they do in fact cook them that way so that the sauce really cooks in and stays on. It turned out it was just the outsides that were crispy, and he was right, this method works. The coconut shrimp was fried crispy and deep in color, with a generous amount of coconut in the batter and the shrimp inside was still moist and flavorful. The green beans were overcooked for my taste - I think next time I’ll get the broccoli. Both my dining companion and I had a salad as one of our side items and it was a generous amount of lettuce, vegetables, red onion and dressing - on the side. The chicken my dining companion ate was a grilled chicken breast covered with spinach, mushrooms, saut/ed onions and Monterey jack cheese. The layers of flavors melded into one fine bite, bite after bite. The mashed potatoes came with a heap of unexpected white gravy and were, unfortunately, so dense they were hard to get through. Neither of us even wanted to take them home. I should have been listening to the same intuitive voice that told me to sit by the kitchen door when it told me to go ahead and order dessert with my meal. This was because when I ordered the dirt pie at the end of the meal, I was told the cookie crumb mix that goes over the top took 10 minutes to prepare and they had not prepped it for the day yet. Our waiter explained that it was mainly a dinner dessert, in his experience. I often go against the crowd in search of greater things. We ordered the brownie delight instead and it was a batter-gooey, slightly underbaked (and I mean that in the best way) brownie, with ice cream melting on top. Yum. So my Santa Fe suggestions include: Try something new or an old favorite - Santa Fe makes them equally well with appealing plate presentation and consistency. Want color? Sit by the kitchen door. Less color? Ask to be seated anywhere else. Want dirt pie at lunch? Order ahead as you would duck in a Chinese restaurant. And, just because the waiter describes green beans as fresh and steamed, this still may mean cooked well with bacon. I mention this not only for crispy veggie eaters like me, but for all those who like them this way. It’s OK to be different, and in fact when I complained about my beans, my dining companion exclaimed, “That’s the best way to eat green beans.” I’m sure many of you will agree. — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. Santa Fe Cattle Company 247 Three Springs Road 843-4666 Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday Cuisine: Southwestern Price range: $6.99 to $15.99 (Express lunch $5.99 to $6.99) Specialties: Ribs, steaks, fajitas Libation situation: Full bar Smoking: Yes |
| Double Dogs offers clever, flavorful menu Thu, 24 Jan 2008 10:15:36 -0600 Looking over the Double Dog menu, I am challenged to offer just as many clever acronyms, metaphors and cute pooch connections as they have. Where else can you get a “sit, heel and peel shrimp” as an appetizer or Pavlovian references that a hot dog will “make your mouth salivate.” The canine cleverness begins long before the menu is ever placed in your hands. In the parking lot I was greeted by a motion sensor barking dog in a dog house and pup prints embedded in the concrete sidewalk. The Double Dogs wait staff opened both doors with a greeting as welcoming as man’s best friend, minus the face licking. I sat down and chatted with the waitress, when some sad news piddled on my parade. No tennis channel in this sports bar during the quarter finals of the Australian Open that was having the best play in decades! I will give Double Dogs the benefit of the doubt. Perhaps the thought of all those bouncing balls around when everyone knows how obsessed dogs can get with tennis balls was too much to consider, but I ask you to reconsider. Tennis is a legitimate and well-watched sport. I promise. As a matter of fact, I was dining with an avid tennis-playing, tennis-watching family that very night. As we looked over the menu, I decided to get a plate of nachos. But, as we should have guessed by its name, instead of coming on a plate, the nachos came in a bowl - a doggy bowl. The Bo’s dog bowl nachos were an abundant portion of white tortilla chips, beefy chili, refried beans, Monterey and jack cheeses, pepper jack sauce, shredded lettuce and jalapenos. Two kinds of beans and three kinds of cheese might sound overwhelming, but it wasn’t. It was, you guessed it if you‘ve read my columns, a appetizing flavor combination. It came with a side of pico de gallo and another unique twist, lime sour cream. This added an additional tang that was as satisfying as a scratch behind the ear. After a heavy appetizer, both my “official” dining companion and I decided to keep it light with a Greek salad and shrimp quesadilla. The quesadilla was a combination of spicy buffalo shrimp, melted Monterey and pepper jack cheeses and grilled onions wrapped in a garlic-herb tortilla with a side of that tangy lime sour cream. The flavors blended well, but the shrimp lacked the kick the menu implied. I would suggest, if you want a kick, order some buffalo sauce on the side. The GRRRRRReek salad, as it is called on the menu, was one of the most generous portions of lettuce, spinach, Greek olives, roasted peppers, feta cheese and cucumbers that I’ve ever had. The feta cheese vinaigrette dressing I was sure went with it lacked the flavor I like with a Greek salad, so I would recommend the balsamic vinaigrette instead - but that’s just me. I had a taste (or at least a look) at the other food served at the table that night. The wings were meaty, generous and covered in sauce that really stuck to the meat, right down to the bone. The chipotle BBQ sauce is a nice variation, with just the hint of a kick. I did not try them, but an avid “hot wing” eater reported his “double dog dare you” hot wings were not even as hot as you find at some local restaurants that don’t have a gradient of four kinds of hot. So that was a disappointment. Perhaps dogs feel the same way about humans feeding them cayenne that they feel about humans feeding them peanut butter: It takes too long to get the taste out of their mouths. The bulldog Philly cheese steak offered a generous and juicy amount of marinated beef, sweet onions, bell peppers and provolone cheese crammed into a hoagie roll. Looking around as we ate, the restaurant motif has, of course, gone to the dogs. Brick walls with all kinds of cartoon dogs, as well as a soothing poster-sized photograph of two actual dogs hanging out together on the lawn. The wait staff was friendly enough, but it seemed as if there were some kind of tag team system going and different wait staff helped us with different tasks. This created moments when we were taken care of frequently and times when no one visited our table for a long period of time. Not even calling, whistling and newspaper across the nose threats worked (those are all metaphors, not what we actually did). I had eaten at Double Dogs twice before this trip to record my experience in writing. We give restaurants six weeks to get on their feet (in this case all four) and from the food to the drinks, Double Dogs used that time well. A little more fine tuning with wait staff attentiveness and all will be well. In other words, they’ve gone from jackal to dingo to a pooch of a place to eat in Bowling Green. It’s like having the perfect mutt wander into your life at just the right time! — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. Double Dogs 1780 Scottsville Road Bowling Green 843-9357 Hours: 3 p.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday through Sunday Specialties: Hot dogs, burgers, pizza Cuisine: American Price range for dinner: $4.99 to $19.99 Libation situation: Full bar Smoking: In separate bar |
| Short trip to quaint Franklin takes one to culinary heaven Thu, 17 Jan 2008 10:26:57 -0600 This week, I found not just a one-of-a-kind culinary treat, but a true recipe for success. The ingredients include two heaping cups of attitude, one level teaspoon of keeping the menu simple, a dollop of delightful flavor combinations and creativity to taste, all stirred gently and poured into an inviting home environment. What comes out of the oven is the ideal meal at the Sassy Lassie Cafe, just a short drive in the quaint town of Franklin. To begin with, I have never felt so at home and comfortable in an eating establishment. Certainly, there’s plenty of home-cooking eateries that offer comfort food, but this is like choosing your favorite spot in the house and settling in with a special meal. The setting is an old home with colorfully painted walls in each room. Each room houses a combination of dining tables and chairs for two or four and inviting, comfortable couches and chairs with a nook for every taste and mood. There’s the main room, where you might pick up a morning chat that I hear is more like heart-to-heart therapy with neighbors and friends; the well-lit computer room, where being alone in contemplation and technology come together; and what I call the secret room, which is a little more isolated so two friends can sit by the fire and possibly share their innermost secrets. But really, I have to stop gushing about the atmosphere and start gushing about the food. My dining companion and I visited the Sassy Lassie for lunch, but it also offers coffee and espresso drinks and an inexpensive breakfast you can take with you or cozy up with and eat in. All breakfasts are homemade and include items such as a sausage roll, which is a puffed pastry stuffed with fresh sausage. It also offers quiche, scones and muffins, as well as a new twist on a southern favorite. The eatery has biscuits rolled flat and stuffed with eggs, cheese and sausage or bacon, and newer twists without any old favorites - like spinach and feta cheese in pie pastry. Sassy Lassie also has what it calls “breakfast pudding” - a baked egg casserole with onion, sausage, ham, bacon, cheese and sassy seasoning topped with parmesan cheese. The lunch menu has been kept simple, just five sandwiches to choose from, but each of them sounded so good, it took me and my dining companion a good five minutes to try to choose just two. It couldn’t be done, so I ordered an extra sandwich to take home for dinner - and was still disappointed I didn’t get to try the other two. My dining companion had the southwestern cowhand with roast beef, herbed cream cheese, green chilies, cheddar cheese and a horseradish dressing on thick slices of sourdough. I finally chose the alpine mountain climber. This sandwich was made of ham, turkey, Swiss cheese and chipotle sauce on an asiago cheese roll. And for dinner that night, I took home the sea captain, which was tuna, feta cheese and black olive pesto on the asiago cheese roll. I am a huge, and I mean huge, fan of perfect flavor combinations and this is what made Sassy Lassie’s menu so inviting to me. Each sandwich had the usual meat and cheese suspects, but each had its own unique flavor twist, like horseradish on the roast beef, chipotle on the turkey and ham and olive pesto with the tuna. Each sandwich was served warm, making it especially inviting on a cold day. To top it all off, there is a soup of the day each day and on this day, I enjoyed the potato soup. Medium-sized chunks of potatoes floated in a thick (but not too thick) creamed soup, with a kick of cheddar flavor every now and then. My dining companion had the potato salad. It was homemade with a traditionally appealing flavor, but you can also have pasta salad or potato chips with your lunch. Before leaving, we just had to try a couple of coffee drinks - the white chocolate raspberry latte and a caramel macchiato. Each begins with a shot of espresso and then, as each name implies, flavors are added so that you get a jolt of caffeine minus the bitterness. My final purchase, to go with the coffee, was the locally famous empire biscuit. This is a small, cookie-type dessert with a fruit filling and a sugar glaze. Rumor has it that if they aren’t available daily, the customers and the wait staff are up in arms. Not to worry though, everything is available in abundance, every day, including Saturdays. So if you live in Franklin, make sure to visit this true hometown treat, and for you BGers, take the short drive and find yourself arriving at a home you’ll want to visit again and again. — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. Sassy Lassie 614 Main St. - Franklin (270) 586-3806 Hours: 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday- Friday; 9 a.m.-2 p.m., Saturday; closed Sunday. Specialties: Breakfast, coffee drinks and sandwiches Cuisine: American Price range for dinner: $3.99 to $7.99 Libation situation: No Smoking: No |
| Food shortage ruins steakhouse meal Thu, 10 Jan 2008 11:07:25 -0600 My dining companion and I ventured north this week to Rawhide Steakhouse and Saloon in Cave City. Rawhide is right off Interstate 65, adjacent to Knight’s Inn, making it convenient for travelers and those of us who sometimes like a little drive with dinner. I was excited to discover this seemingly quality steakhouse, and even more excited when we entered a freshly decorated rustic atmosphere. We were seated at one of the many booths painted the same deep, barn brown as the walls, which were scattered with farm items and memorabilia. My anticipation spiked even more as I read menu items like pecan encrusted chicken, grilled salmon salad, angus beef, deep fried green beans with wasabi/ranch dressing, and three flaming desserts, including bananas foster. I’m afraid my high expectations, coupled with the delay of a delivery truck that day, left a less than desirable taste in our mouths. Before I give you the details of our one experience, I will say that my hope when I review a restaurant is to guide you, the customer, toward desirable menu items and offer information so that you can decide for yourself what and what not to ask for. It is, after all, just one random experience. I also hope it gives each restaurant an opportunity to fine tune anything that they may not know is not working. I will say one wonderful feature of this restaurant was the humble, genuine way in which the wait staff and management tried to remedy this situation so that we had as enjoyable experience as they were able to offer that day - without knowing I was critiquing the restaurant - and I truly admire that. We began with those fried green beans I mentioned, but the breading didn’t have any flavor at all. Salting them wasn’t enough, and I thought perhaps the lack of flavor would be balanced out by the wasabi/ranch dip. I did not, however, find a hint of punch in the dip. We sent the green beans back and asked for the shrimp appetizer. They were out of shrimp. The apologetic, helpful wait staff (who was two days new) mentioned that the artichoke dip was especially good, however she sheepishly returned to report they were out of chips and that, in fact, a scheduled food delivery that day was long overdue. We decided to skip the appetizer and order entrees. My dining companion opted for the chicken breast and baked potato, I ordered the combination dinner of sirloin steak and ribs, choosing mixed vegetables as my one side. We were only offered one side and no dinner salad, which seemed odd. A salad and side was offered with steaks, but not the fish, steak combos or chicken. At these prices, I thought for sure a salad would be included. I’m wondering if they were out of lettuce and our thoughtful server just couldn’t disappoint us one more time. One the bright side, the grilled chicken breast was a tender, generous portion (but I would recommend one of the choices with sauce), and the baked potato came fully loaded with cheese, sour cream and butter. The top sirloin steak had some gristle, was tender, but lacked any appetizing beef flavor or seasoning. The vegetables seemed to be a mixture of frozen and fresh. From what I could tell, fresh broccoli and cauliflower, frozen carrots and squash. Dinner was also served with what looked liked Texas toast, but the butter was sweetened - making it a confusing combination. I really didn’t know what to think, so I called the next day, anonymously, to see if the manager had an explanation for our experience. She said the cook that day was the usual cook, the beef was fresh, but the lack of delivery did create some real problems that day. This was never more present than when the manager tried to remedy the situation the day before by offering us a free dessert. We opted for the caramel brownie, but again, with a truly apologetic look on her face the waitress told us the only dessert they had that day was peach pie. So we took what we could get - and will hope for better next time. — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. |
| Hog Wild specializes in Memphis-style barbecue Thu, 3 Jan 2008 10:57:51 -0600 I sat by myself in the Hog Wild BBQ and Deli last week, eating a chicken salad sandwich, feeling like I was in the Hard Rock Caf/ of Bowling Green, and, as if I wasn’t really alone. That’s because the bright yellow walls of this diner are donned with celebrity photos and autographs. So while Don Adams and I shared our New Year’s resolutions, I could also catch a glimpse of Joe Namath, Jimmy Cagney, and one of my favorite people on the planet, Robert Redford, across the room. One thing Hog Wild does not have in common with Hard Rock Caf/ is over-priced meals. This was one of the most reasonably priced meals I’ve eaten in a long time. For just $5, I had a chicken salad sandwich on a six-inch sandwich roll and a cup of potato soup. The soup was a tangy blend of potato broth and cheeses, without being too cheesy. The chicken salad sandwich was sweet in flavor, I think made with salad dressing instead of mayonnaise, with relish and even a few nuts for texture. I ended up eating the sandwich with the bottom part of the bread only, because I like a lot of the meat taste in my sandwiches with a hint of bread. I knew that I couldn’t go away without trying the barbecue, baked beans and coleslaw, as well as Hog Wild’s specialty, barbecue nachos, so I ordered these items to go and asked for second and third opinions when I arrived home. We were all in agreement that the pulled pork barbecue meat was smoked to perfection. Hog Wild’s specialty is Memphis-style barbecue, and when I researched what that meant, it’s the smoking that sets this barbecue apart. Apparently, it’s not just the seasoning that made the distinct smoked flavor so very appetizing, but that they use only the highest quality of meat and let the slow smoking process enhance its natural flavor. This results in pork that is tasty and tender, even without rubs and sauces. I couldn’t tell if the baked beans were homemade, but they tasted good, either way. The coleslaw seemed as if it were also made with salad dressing instead of mayo, something I don’t personally care for, but I know many might like to know where they can find this type of coleslaw. Hog Wild has a variety of sandwiches, hot dogs, a house salad, soup of the day and even a loaded baked potato in the deli department - as well as cookies and a thick slice of chocolate cake, if you please. The barbecue menu offers pulled pork sandwiches and all the fixin’s, no ribs or chicken. I brought home the pig-out plate and for $7 three of us ate - the barbecue sandwich, baked beans, coleslaw and chips. Finally, we all had to try the barbecue nachos. This is a unique combination of tortilla chips, baked beans, pulled smoked pork, melted nacho cheese, sour cream and jalapenos. Each of us started with an open mind, but the head tilt followed, one by one. That’s the head tilt that says, “Wow, that’s different. I’m not sure what to make of it.” I am a great lover of combining pungent tastes, but am used to tastes like capers with bleu cheese or kalamata olives with basil. So, I’ll let the head tilt speak for itself and let all of you out there give it a try. I’d love to know what you think. You can spy the Hog Wild sign if you’re sitting at the light on Scottsville Road and look down toward Greenview Hospital, but you can also enter from the Party 1 store in the Hobby Lobby shopping center. I’ve glanced at the sign hundreds of times, but didn’t know when I entered I’d be getting some of the best smoked pulled pork I’ve eaten and the chance to get a glance across an uncrowded room from the likes of Batman and Robin, the odd couple, and of course Bob. Redford that is. Hog Wild BBQ and Deli 1751 Scottsville Road Bowling Green 393-4471 Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday - Saturday Specialties: Memphis-style pulled pork Cuisine: American Price range for dinner: $2.50 to $7 Libation situation: None Smoking: No |
| Nashville buffet has international flair Thu, 27 Dec 2007 11:12:49 -0600 I can’t believe I’ve lived just one hour from Nashville, have driven right by on my way to the airport hundreds of times (especially during the holidays), yet have never been to the Opryland Hotel to see the one-of-a-kind atrium with its spectacular display of lights. Apparently, I’m not the only one in town, because, on the overwhelming recommendation of two other longtime residents who had never been, I joined some new dining companions there this week, and they hadn’t driven down from Bowling Green to see it in 20 years. If you are a Bowling Green resident who falls in one of those two categories, I recommend you venture on down, and while you’re there, I recommend the Water’s Edge Marketplace Buffet. True to its name, the buffet had an international flair: From the tamales and chili from Mexico, to the pot stickers from Asia, and the Polish pierogies and tiramisu from Italy. My dining companions and I started with a festive two bottles of wine and appetizers. Yes, appetizers at a buffet! Four kinds of cheeses, salami, prosciutto, and an olive and sun-dried tomato bar. This, coupled with eight different crackers and breads, including olive cibatta bread, all complimented the California pinot noir and a refreshing pino grigio. We were glad for the sustenance, especially since a large party had descended onto the buffet, turning it into a cafeteria line instead, so that when we went back for salads, we were politely turned away. The salads definitely had world flair with a Caesar, spinach and mixed greens with mandarin oranges and Asian dressing. Which leads me to one of my few complaints. Because this buffet was expensive, it felt much more like fine dining than an “all you can eat” attitude. Because of this, I looked to create a plate of food that fit well together, yet with food from so many different countries, I struggled to do so. What I did opt for was the grilled salmon with pesto, a mixed green salad (that turned out to be too sweet for my theme) and some steamed zucchini that went well with the salmon and was seasoned with herbs to perfection. One of my dining companions commented that she could have eaten an entire vegetarian meal because of the zucchini, a delicious cauliflower dish, the salads and the marinated corn and garbanzo beans also included in this one of a kind buffet. Other highlights for the verbal new crew of companions (especially after a few glasses of wine) included the pierogies, veal and chocolate fondue, which were berries on a small skewer with a ramekin of dark chocolate. The consensus of what not to put on your plate included the pot stickers, curried lamb on toast and a peanut butter mousse that tasted as if they just took peanut butter from the jar and whipped it up - too thick and tasteless. It is said, after building on for decades, that the Opryland Hotel is one of the largest buildings under one roof in the world! I would have to agree, because the trek I made from the hotel rooms to the restaurant was enough to increase my appetite, but the food coupled with the entertaining lights and show on the water’s edge was well worth the walk and well worth the drive. — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. |
| Cracker Barrel provides traditional, no-frills fare Thu, 20 Dec 2007 12:12:04 -0600 It was Christmas time in Bowling Green when all through the town, wary shoppers were looking to lunch without the frown; of waiting too long, cutting into their shopping, when Cracker Barrel came to mind as a place worth stopping. Enough of that - you just want to know where you can eat during this holiday season and what to expect. What you can expect from Cracker Barrel is just what it says it offers: “something for travelers and neighbors alike.” The familiarity of eating where everyone knows you - even if you’re miles from home. It felt so familiar that by the end of the meal, I barely knew I’d been there. Our waitress took our order without a lot of the usual banter we enjoy, but she was efficient. The food is the same, no frills or new-age twists to any meal. The meals my dining companions and I ordered varied, but one thing we could count on is that everything was made from scratch. From scratch yes, but something your grandmother probably didn’t offer that Cracker Barrel does is a low-carb menu. From that part of the lunch menu, I had the grilled chicken tenderloins that were marinated, covered in thick sliced bacon and melting Colby cheese. The menu described it as smothered, and boy, was it. I could hardly see the chicken, but could taste it in every bite. I’m all about flavor combinations and this one was one of a kind - in a fine way. Also off the low carb menu was the 10-ounce ribeye steak. Even without the carbs, it was a hearty holiday meal. It came lightly seasoned (and aged for 28 days, the menu noted), but it was not the “burned” to a crisp variety that my dining companion always orders. It was still pink inside. As she had been throughout the meal, our waitress was there in a flash, and with few words whisked his meal away to make it just right. Just as your grandmother would out of love. The final meal we ordered was the most traditional of home-cooked meals - meatloaf. Cracker Barrel’s meatloaf was the lunch special of the day and was also one of a kind, with large chunks of green pepper, carrots, onions and other veggies. Each of us had a salad as one of our sides and enjoyed the variety of dressings, including honey mustard, ranch and bleu cheese. The bleu cheese was the thickest and most traditional bleu cheese I’ve had in a long time, which was a breath of fresh air. Our other sides varied from large baby carrots to potatoes mashed, roasted and baked, and finally country-style green beans cooked well. As if a place to come in from the cold and eat wasn’t enough, we even did a little holiday shopping. Did I forget to mention Cracker Barrel also has a country store attached to it? Well, it does, and I found an adorable little teddy bear to give to the first grandchild of a close friend of mine. There was one part of the meal that was difficult and that’s the fact that the smoking section is very close to the non-smoking section, and during our visit, it was a predominant factor. I say this so that when you dine there, you can take this into consideration and ask the hostess to seat you as far away as possible, if smoke affects you. On a final note, while we thought stopping in at the height of lunch might mean a long wait, it wasn’t. But if we’d had to wait, Cracker Barrel has a variety of rocking chairs and benches outdoors, so that you feel as if you’re just sitting on your grandmother’s front porch, waiting for those green beans to cook until they’ve almost vaporized. — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff by telephone at 783-3235 or by e-mail at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. Cracker Barrel 1960 Mel Browning St. Bowling Green 843-8087 Hours: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday Specialties: Country cooking Cuisine: American Price range for dinner: $6.49 to $12.99 Libation situation: None Smoking: Yes |
| Buckhead Cafe’s paninis make good, quick meals Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:53:10 -0600 My dining companion and I were in search of soup on a recent rainy day. Yes, there have been many of them lately. We decided to go into Buckhead Cafe because we knew they had two regular soups and usually two soups of the day, as well as other warm meals that cater to a shopping budget, both in time and money, this holiday season. It was the dinner hour, but business was slow, and so was the counter staff. We arrived to three other people in line looking very impatient. One of the patrons walked around to the food pick-up counter to let them know of our dilemma. A minute later a manager came from a table in the dining room, where she was ensconced in a pile of paperwork, to take our order. At the same time, the counter staff in uniform emerged from the bathroom and, without an apology attached, claimed she was on a break. She took our order, but never lost her sour disposition. I noticed after we ordered that she moved to working behind the scenes and two new, bright-eyed, eager-to-help members of the wait staff took her place. Even at the end of our meal, when we approached a friend who was ordering to say hello, the same wait staff was still there and promptly asked to take my order. Now that’s some immediate, solution-oriented quality control. The food we ordered was varied and did warm us up. The choices for soups that day were the regular French onion and baked potato - the latter comes in a cup, bowl or bread bowl. The two soups of the day were chicken noodle and white chili. I opted for the French onion. The broth was a delicious deep brown color with a slice of caramelized onion in every bite. The topping was unique, however, in an awkward way. Most French onion soups I’ve had are smothered in melted cheese and bread that is baked over the top of the broth so much so that the broth cannot be seen. Hence, what you get is a bite of broth, cheese and bread in every bite. This presentation was different. There was a candy-bar sized slice of panini bread with melted mozzarella floating in the middle of the bowl. This meant only about six to 10 bites with cheese and bread, and the rest was broth only, which was disappointing. I also ordered a chicken cordon bleu panini with a side salad. The side salad is a healthy choice, but will add a couple of dollars to the cost of the meal. Paninis have been made popular lately because you can get them in the frozen food section of your grocery now, but if that’s the only panini you’ve had, you really don’t get the portion and substance that is advertised. At Buckhead, you’ll get that and more. A large slice of French, seven-grain or marble rye panini bread (depending on the sandwich) grilled with a generous amount of fillings. In my case it was chunks of chicken so large I could hardly chew each bite, ham, provolone cheese and Dijon mustard. There’s a panini for every taste eating style, from portabella mushroom for the vegetarian to a patty melt that combines something classic with something eclectic. My dining companion will most often have Buckhead’s chicken salad sandwich, which is always good, but substituted a hot version - Buck’s chicken sandwich with onions, Applewood bacon and melted provolone (minus the mushrooms for him). The chicken was grilled perfectly with a tasty charred layer on the outside, yet still fork-tender moist on the inside. He choose the healthy broccoli salad with raisins and nuts, but could have just as easily opted for homemade kettle chips, fries or potato salad if he needed a little sustenance. Not that we needed a little sustenance, but Buckhead’s new arrangement for ordering at the counter sneakily displays their muffins and desserts in all their glory. We opted for a raspberry cheesecake bar with a dark chocolate cookie crust. The contrast between the slightly sweet raspberry filling and the bitterness of the dark chocolate made this a unique and appetizing, but not overtly sweet, treat. The Boston cream pie muffin was more like a cupcake. White cake, thin chocolate frosting and a hint of vanilla cream on top and within the muffin. Buckhead is expanding to offer additional indoor seating, which makes sense. The construction wasn’t noisy, but did add a little chaos to the experience - but hey, if you’re out shopping this time of year, you’ll feel right at home. — New restaurants are given a six-week grace period. Comments can be sent to Managing Editor Mike Alexieff at malexieff@bgdailynews.com. The Buckhead Cafe 760 Campbell Lane - Buckhead Square Bowling Green 846-0110 Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday Specialties: Paninis, pizza Cuisine: American Price range: $3.99 to $9.99 Libation situation: None Smoking: No |
| Mariah’s take-out is always good to go Thu, 6 Dec 2007 11:16:30 -0600 The leaves are off the trees, the temperature has dropped and I don’t know about you, but between Thanksgiving and Christmas I’m prone to eating fast, unhealthy meals. So I went in search of a fast, healthy meal and found myself at the take-out counter at Mariah’s. Fast food may be quick, easy and cheap, but you can’t order a Big Mac from your computer and have it dropped off in an hour or ready to be picked up in 20 minutes. My hostess for the day was the Mariah’s Web site. At http://www.mariahs.com I was greeted with a welcome and a promise that “ordering from Mariah’s has never been easier.” I perused the menu of entrees, pastas, salads and desserts and made my choice. But before I ordered, I coaxed my dining companion off the couch so he could place his order. He chose the chicken stir-fry and our cyber wait staff prompted him to choose a salad dressing to go with meal. He chose honey mustard and his order was complete. I bellied back up to the order board and chose the wood-fired salmon. I was given a list of sides to choose from and chose the wood-roasted fresh vegetables, then blue cheese as my salad dressing. I added a chicken bacon wrap and bread pudding to the order because I was looking to not only review taste, health and promptness, but wanted to let you know what food did and didn’t travel well. The stir-fry meal traveled the best. The sweet, yet tangy oriental sauce over rice and chicken was not affected by the ride home at all. In fact, the abundant, flavorful juices in the sauce with tastes of ginger, orange, soy sauce and other spices, may very well have been enhanced by marinating in the bowl with every bump, curve and bend in the road. Even though it was traveling out of water, the fresh, Atlantic cold-water salmon also traveled well. It was still warm enough to eat with pepper and other spices atop a tender, moist cut of salmon. A wedge of lemon, wrapped in a decorative yellow sachet, squeezed over the top, added to the flavor and tenderness. The bacon wrap was absolutely delicious with a wild, woodsy flavor. It combined the flavor of hickory smoked bacon, sliced chicken breast, with cheddar and jack cheese wrapped in a wheat tortilla. It is toasted in Mariah’s wood fire oven, and for this reason, it didn’t travel well. It needed to be re-heated to re-melt the cheese, and the tortilla edges had hardened. It was good though, and after re-heating, tearing off the edges and dipping it in the ranch dressing it came with - it rivaled any fast or slow meal I’ve ever had. Mariah’s signature salads also traveled well - dressings on the side. The wood-roasted vegetables (zucchini, squash, onions and red peppers) seemed to continue cooking on the drive home, so that they were - if this is possible - soggy at first bite, then dry without much flavor as I ate them. If you’re eating in, I recommend them, but for a healthy alternative that might travel better I would suggest the fresh fruit. The prize winning food item that would probably still taste good even if you drove it cross country was the bread pudding. Wow. This was by far the best bread pudding I’ve had in Bowling Green. Rich, solid, thick, yet moist and spongy to the touch. I could taste the hint of white chocolate and the Kentucky whiskey sauce was delicious poured over the top or with the bread pudding dipped until saturation. Now, it is true this food will cost you. About three to four times more than what you’d pay at that fast food drive through. But this column is about the quality of food that passes through your palate, and if you can afford a little splurge now and then, I recommend you put your taste buds and health first and stop at Mariah’s for some quality “fast” food. Mariah’s Food and Spirits 801 State St. Bowling Green, KY 42101 842-6878 Take-out hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday Specialties: Pasta, steaks and sandwiches Cuisine: American Price range for take out: $7.49 to $22.99 Libation situation: Full bar (but you can’t take it with you) Smoking: In your car? It’s up to you! |
| Bread & Bagel worth a visit for those in any ‘niche’ Thu, 29 Nov 2007 11:03:47 -0600 On a recent visit to Bread & Bagel restaurant, I not only got my fill of one-of-a-kind sandwiches, salads and soups, I gulped down a huge portion of artistic and political culture. The local artwork on the gold-colored walls and multiple posters announcing local musical performances several nights during the week are obvious signs that Bread & Bagel has found a niche as an eclectic “artsy” caf/. What I didn’t expect was to overhear an interesting conversation between the wait staff and a customer, home for the holiday and working for a current presidential candidate. Now that’s not something you hear every day in Bowling Green. Having said that, I have to say, if you stay away from Bread & Bagel because you don’t fit with that “niche,” you’re really missing out on some deliciously healthy food (badly needed after the over consumption of food and sweets last week). To begin with, the vegetable soup was truly a vegetable soup, not vegetable soup with a hint of meat. Large pieces of carrots, potatoes and other vegetables in a vegetable and tomato broth. I got the last bowl of the day, even though it was during the middle of lunch. For my sandwich, I ordered something I’ve never had before, the Johnny Walker. It had Swiss cheese, avocado, humus, artichoke hearts, tomato and pesto. I added salami, because I felt it needed some meat, and took off the onions, because I don’t like them. OK, so I threw healthy out the window for a little flavor, but I made up for it with the choice of healthy breads: focaccia, wheat, sunflower wheat and white, all homemade. I chose the focaccia bread, which is a thick, dimpled Italian flat bread with herbs. Focaccia can be overwhelming, but Bread & Bagel somehow bakes it so that it is soft, white and fluffy on the inside and full of taste on the outer crust - which is also soft unless toasted. It complimented the burst of flavors in my Johnny Walker sandwich. My dining companion had his favorite, asiago chicken on toasted focaccia. The asiago chicken sandwich is like having an Italian chicken salad with a delicious blend of cheese and herbs mixed with shredded chicken. Slightly heated with the toasted bread, it’s a great winter sandwich coupled with a cup of soup. We also shared a Greek salad. The salad was the usual, greens, feta cheese, cucumbers, tomatoes and olives. They were out of the Greek dressing so we chose the sun-dried vinaigrette. Even though I was disappointed they were out of the Greek dressing, it turned out to be a fine alternative. It was light yet tangy blend of tomatoes and Italian herbs with olive oil and vinegar. Sounds like we were two healthy happy customers, doesn’t it? Well, our experience that day at Bread & Bagel wasn’t as good as it has been in the past. As I said, they were out of soup, even though it was a cold, rainy day, we came in during the lunch hour and the restaurant was not very busy. When the soup arrived, it wasn’t very hot, and needed to be heated again. The asiago chicken sandwich was acceptable that day, but it wasn’t as good as it has been in the past. It lacked the cheese and herb taste we were used to, but the tender chicken did stand on its own. Also, I’d like to tell you in detail about a few other sandwiches Bread & Bagel offers because they are so unique, but they were out of to-go menus and their menu selections are on the sandwich board. So that was disappointing as well. What I can tell you is that Bread & Bagel also offers gourmet pizzas, now has fountain drinks and offers nice selections of imported beers. And, as I noted when I ordered my sandwich, you can create your own sandwich from scratch or modify one of the many interesting combinations the staff and owners have created and fine tuned over the years. Bread & Bagel is proud to be locally owned and operated, and offers bumper stickers for sale for those who support this idea. It’s a truly local business catering to a healthy lifestyle through the stimulation of body, mind and creativity. I guess what I’m saying is that Bread & Bagel is definitely worth a visit. I hope sometimes that a review can also help a restaurant realize when it needs some attention to consistency, yet as far as Bread & Bagel is concerned, even on a “bad” day, it’s better than most. Bread & Bagel 871 Broadway Ave., Bowling Green, 781-1473 Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday-Friday; 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday Specialties: Sandwiches and pizza Cuisine |